Change of Plan

After the heroics of our first leg, I guess it was inevitable the power and majesty of the Colorado Rockies would remind us who is boss. Never underestimate Mother Nature. 

Before we get to that update, however, some catch up is in order. 

After we glided so magically into Leadville a day and a half ahead of schedule, we decided a little white water rafting would be in order.  So we hitched back to Twin Lakes..

Where Charlotte got to enjoy a ride in the back of a pickup - always a highlight.  

We booked the guys from Elk Mountain Adventures, and drove out beneath Mount Hope..

to have a blast on some Class 4 rapids down the Arkansas River,

which Charlotte thoroughly enjoyed,

even if her paddle rarely seemed to find the river!  :)

That evening we found a straggling hiker named Rummy who had little money, no room rented, and a trail-beaten expression. We asked our incredibly warm and charming host Bruce from WindSpirit cabins if she could just put her tent in the grass outside our cabin, and he offered that plus a shower and laundry. Bruce, as you know, you have three more raving fans. We had a lovely evening of a campfire with smores. 

The next morning we set off for another 4000 ft incline up to Hope Pass with this encouraging sign. 

We didn't see any mountain lions, but we did have this hike profile to look forward to:

For some reason neither of us really understand, our feet were like lead. Every step seemed a chore, every switchback a crisis. Maybe the marshmallows were bad, but both of our tummies were unsettled and we had, shall we say delicately, a non-solid intestinal foundation.  We felt rotten.  

Even getting to the summit of the pass itself, the achievement of which is normally guaranteed to lighten any difficulty, seemed a faded relief. 

And the view that greeted us seemed like an ill omen, a harbinger of torment, with grey clouds looming ominously. 

We didn't speak much, and hurried down the mountain ahead of the sound of cracking thunder in the distance. 

That evening I felt a growing unease. I hadn't said anything, but I'd had several instances when I'd had to really gasp for air since the beginning of the trip.  I exercise a decent amount, and this wasn't a normal gasp. I knew it was my system getting used to the altitude, and concluded that if I just powered through the discomfort, my heart would grow accustomed to the lack of oxygen.  As many know, I've had two open-heart surgeries, with both my aortic and pulmonic valves being replaced due to a congenital malformation.  So I now have moderate regurgitation.  My cardiologist had approved the trip, with the understanding that any shortness of breath should not be ignored.  

Of course, I'd ignored the first few instances, but rather than fade, the symptoms seemed to be getting worse.  The Rockies are just plain badass. I've also had several migraines, and frankly wasn't enjoying much of it myself, but vicariously enjoyed watching Charlotte do so incredibly. I figured it was a time for dad to grin and bear it. 

So it was with haggard enthusiasm that I entered the collegiate peaks. 

As the next day dawned, and we started up another huge incline to Lake Ann Pass, I finally shared with Charlotte the difficulty I was having. 

Rather than be disappointed, she was amazing. She helped me realise the one leg of the trip that I'd been truly spritely was the hike up Mt Elbert. While this was the highest altitude we climbed, it was the only leg of the trip where I hadn't carried a heavy backpack - we had pitched the tent beforehand, stowed the gear, and only had water and clothes in the pack. Rather than carrying 30 lbs, I was carrying five. 

Charlotte also confided to having some discomfort with the pack and the altitude, but hadn't wanted to disappoint me!

So we talked it through and came up with a change of plan. We figure my heart was ok hiking without the weight of the pack. So rather than hike the rest of the Colorado Trail (we've already done about 100 miles of it), we're going to rent a truck, and go hike up 9 more 14,000 ft peaks. We won't have to carry heavy packs, and we'll actually do about the same amount of climbing as doing the trail itself. 

So the Rite of Adventure will be 100 miles and 10 peaks. Not bad. 

Decision made, we traversed Lake Ann Pass, and spent a day and night and another day hiking and hitching through driving storms and hail and thunder and lightning.   

 

When you're in the middle of nowhere, getting somewhere takes a while!

Along the way, we met this beaver like creature, who got as close to us as the photo looks. Anybody have any idea what this thing is?!

Now we're in Gunnison, where we'll soon rent a F150 pickup truck and head to Mount Yale, a classic 14er. 

Its a change of plan, but still a big challenge, and now even more of an adventure.